Ilford HP5+ 400asa 35mm - 36 exp

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Film grain can appear smooth or sharp. Smooth grain will fade from view while taking some detail away also. Sharp grain may help reveal some fine elements in your images. Grain sharpness can change depending on the developer though the film itself plays a significant role in its appearance. This is a really cool process that works to reduce the negative contrast and increase sharpness by allowing the developer to exhaust itself on the highlights while having more time to interact with and develop the shadows. HP5 PLUS can be processed in a wide range of different developers using spiral tanks, deep tanks and automatic processors." As I develop my own film I shoot it at box speed (meaning if the box says ISO 400 I meter at ISO 400 (or guess ISO 400 or just be aware the camera is expecting ISO 400). If I know that there was insufficient light when I took the photos and I really needed ISO 800 or ISO 1600 I make a note. Under exposed film I developed using the same formula I do for other box speed films; two reel tank with 600ml cold water, 8ml rodinal, agitation for the first twenty seconds, stand for half an hour, one inversion and some horizontal “spins”, and then stand again for forty minutes. Stop-rinse with cold water, and then a double bath fix. I usually fix for a while and sort of leave it after the initial inversions, and for expired films I feel like the fix stage cannot be overdone. The longer I leave the fix the better the results feel, although this may be in my mind.

Let’s dig a little deeper into how we went from Hypersensitive Panchromatic film and ended up with HP5 PLUS… Of course, there are plenty of other solid options for pushing HP5+. The developers above are both fine-grain developers, which means they have a solvent in them that reduces the size of the grain, and potentially some of the sharpness of the film. If you’re personally a big fan of grains, then you’ll want a High-Acutance developer like Rodinal or diluted HC-110. Overall it means that unless the film expired relatively recently, there’s a fair chance that the experiment will fail, and I’d rather trust fresh film. I tried a roll of the Delta 400 along the same lines, at box speed, and using but the results were underwhelming. Expired Delta 400, EI400, close crop I used Delta 400, expired in the 1980s, at EI200 to photograph the Autumn Equinox at Primrose Hill in London. The crushed dynamic range made for some contrasty results, and I’m pleased with the results. Grainy and atmospheric, but with enough visible detail for the story to remain clear. These will fit in nicely with a wider project which includes some very grainy night-time work made on in-dated Delta 3200.For reference, I developed the roll of Kentmere 400 (and Ilford Pan 400) from this film test in my usual soup of Xtol and Rodinal film developers. I’ve used this developing mix for so long it is as much of a safety blanket for me when it comes to film developing. My results may look very similar to when using Xtol developer alone but I feel Rodinal can add increased sharpness. You may find these links of interest – This film outperforms much of the competition in every scenario. When you need to capture all of the details in a scene, HP5 will not let you down. Even when pushed in low-light scenarios, the shadow details reproduced on this film are second to none. That’s one of the big reasons why I always store a roll of HP5 in my camera bag. After beginning my Ilford acquaintanceship with the relatively obscure Pan 400, HP5 Plus was my first foray into the brand’s better-known films.

When shot at box speed, Ilford HP5+’s grain looks to be about the same size, perhaps slightly grittier than that of Kodak Tri-X 400 . Ilford HP5+ with Olympus Stylus Mju I. Bottom-right: contrast curves adjusted in post. Top-left: unedited scan (equalized). How much does Ilford HP5+ cost, and where to buy it. The original Kentmere 400 film box branding said “Kentmere 400” on the side (white box and cassette label). The new branding reads “Pan 400” on one side and it has a pink-purple box design. (“Kentmere” is written on the other side). If Kentmere 400 becomes known as Pan 400 it is very easy to confuse this film with the Ilford Pan 400. They are different film from my own testing but no wonder people get confused! I thought I would mention it. AGFA Photo APX 400 vs Kentmere 400 Unless you’re trying out a certain film type for a specific reason, the less you can spend on rolls for your street photography where the results are going to be more hit and miss than studio work, obviously the better. HP5 Plus did live up to its billing as far as contrast goes too. I definitely got more dramatic results out of the JCH Street Pan 400 and the Rollei Retro 400 too. Not that this is categorically a bad thing or a good thing. Some people might not want too much contrast.I shoot medium format, 120mm film. The cameras I use are irrelevant but we’re all photography geeks here so I’ll tell you that I use the Mamiya RB67, a Hasselblad 500c and a Pentax 6x7. Occasionally I use 35mm film in my old Nikon N60 camera and the developing process is nearly identical except this size film gets loaded onto the Paterson reel in it’s compressed position to accommodate the smaller size film. For this article, I will focus on developing 120mm format film. Supply List